How Our Kilts Are Made

There are 10 stages to making a kilt. These are:

Making A Kilt 1. Measuring up
2. Preparing the Material
3. Marking Out
4. Pleating
5. Adjusting Hip & Waist
6. Basting, Stitching & Trimming Pleats
7. Fringing
8. Waistband & Lining
9. Adding Buckles & Straps
10. Finishing

1. Measuring
Three measurements are required; the waist, seat and length. The waist measurement is taken from 2" above the natural waist and the length is taken from there to the centre of the knee. The seat measurement is always greater than the waist otherwise the kilt won't stay up! A seat measurement of up to 46" would take 8yds of material, anything greater than that would take 9yds or more to get a good finish.

2. Preparing the Material
Kilting quality tartan has a finished selvage edge. This is done by using thicker thread at the edge to stop the material fraying. This edge will form the bottom of the kilt. An 8yd kilt is made by taking a 4yd double width length (if it's a matching sett) and cutting it down the centre to the required length, then joining the two pieces together (The join isn't seen as its hidden in a pleat). The top edge is then finished off to stop fraying.

3. Marking Out
The length has already been marked and cut. In the next stage the position of the aprons and pleats are marked. This has to be done carefully to ensure that the front apron of the kilt is centred properly.

4. Pleating
There are different styles of pleats, for example box pleats or knife pleats. Tartans can also be pleated to stripe or to the sett. Most traditional kilts are knife pleated to the sett. Knife pleats all face in the same direction (pointing to the right as you look at the back) the depth will depend on the size of the sett (Repeating pattern) of the tartan. There is a considerable skill in ensuring that the pleats match perfectly.

5. Adjusting Hip & Waist
With the pleats pinned in place the difference between the hip and waist is adjusted by adding small darts to the apron for half the difference with the rest spread across the pleated area.

6. Basting, Stitching & Trimming Pleats
The pleats can now be stitched in place. Firstly two tacking stitches are run across to keep the pleats in place (this is what you take out before you use the kilt) Then the pleats are stitched from hip to waist and then the excess material is trimmed from the stitched area. This area is hidden behind the lining. A slit is also cut for the first buckle so the strap passes through.

7. Fringing
A strip of material is added to the edge of the front apron and fringed to finish off the edge. Depending on how its folded this will have either 2 or 3 fringes.

8. Waistband & Lining
The centre strip that was left over when the material was prepared is used to make the waistband. This is stitched into place to exactly match the sett of the rest of the kilt. A canvas lining is added to the top of the kilt (white, ecru or black canvas is used). This is stitched into place covering the sewn down parts of the pleats. The lining carries across the aprons but is left open at the bottom.

9. Adding Buckles & Straps
The buckles and straps can now be sewn into place allowing for the kilt to be adjusted when worn. Normally leather buckles are used but some modern kilts use Velcro to fasten them. Kilts can have either two or three buckles, the first two fasten at either side along the top of the kilt, the optional third buckle goes further down on the edge of the outer apron. The choice of two or three is a personal preference but some prefer the swing that a third buckle gives the kilt.

10. Finishing
Finally the pleats are pressed into place to give a sharp edge. The kilt is now ready to wear. A highly experienced kiltmaker can complete a full 8yd kilt in around 3-4 hours.